Patrik Ervell – Fall 2010 Show
I always look forward to this collection, especially the Fall/Winter ones. There may not be drastic changes or trend-chasing from season to season, but there is something distinctive about the Patrik Ervell collection that I have an affinity for. For this season, Ervell maintains his minimal aesthetic amidst a very subdued (with the exception of the red suit and yellow raincoat) range of colors. And as evidenced in last year’s show, he continually explores the use of alternate synthetic materials for his construction. One would comment that this year’s showing did embrace some workwear trends in the styling. There were chunky shoes and trim canvas panting that suggested this, but it never strays from the Patrik Ervell motif. I must quote GQ’s take on the collection from their website. “A parallel universe for moody art-school kids with a thing for Joy Division.” Too funny.
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Loden Dager – Fall 2010 Show
From what’s going around the internet, many have used words such as hip, urban, and even safe for the Loden Dager Fall/Winter 2010 collection. Amidst the gamut of shows featured during NYC’s Men’s Fashion Week, there are plenty of designers that are tamer and more encompassing of that “safe” moniker that I’ve seen.
The design pair of Oliver Helden and Paul Marlow, both formerly of Marc Jacobs, have crafted an indeed hip and urban collection that highlights minimalism and architectural lines in their silhouettes. There was a pleasant mix of trim cuts and wider fits (especially in the interesting sweatpants with pleating), and also, a dominantly neutral color family featuring blues and grays was broken up by a few looks that had bold shocks of color. There was cohesiveness to the show by including variations of particular items such as belted overcoats, the sweat pants (with the unbuttoned fly), shorts with leggings (extremely popular look this coming Fall) and their beautiful shawl-jacket. Beautiful cohesiveness is a more fitting description.
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Band of Outsiders – Fall 2010 Show
Scott Sternberg remains at the forefront of a style which has soared to another stratosphere in men’s fashion. It’s defined a set of “cool,” for lack of a better word. You may recognize many of the items from his Band of Outsiders Fall/Winter 2010 collection. Not just from his works in seasons past, but a similar anorak at L.L. Bean, a corduroy suit at J. Crew, or a navy blue blazer anywhere. Look closer though. There is something apparent that identifies the BoO looks. There are the ultra-trim silhouettes and shrunken jacket proportions, contrast collars on the trench and bomber, and the construction of the pockets on the anoraks and blazers are different then what you’ve seen at retail stores. It’s just better. A major discussion point on the blogs and Twitter were the unveiling of the Band of Outsiders’ assortment of footwear – got the internet going crazy!
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Evisu By Common Projects Sneaker Collaboration
Evisu Jeans has collaborated with label Common Projects to create a new line of sneakers for Autumn/Winter 2010. Designed with minimalism in mind, the shoes will consist of two styles of leather, vulcanized sneakers, branded as a limited collaboration using Common Projects’ trademark foil heel stamp. This is the first announced collaboration for Evisu with Scott Morrison as the new CEO/Creative Director. Two styles will be available for release: a low top leather sneaker and a high top option that come in either Navy, White, or Black. The Evisu by Common Projects sneaker collaboration will release this Fall of 2010.
Opening Ceremony – Spring 2010 Video Starring Kristen Dunst and Jason Schwartzman
Style.com has an exclusive first look at Opening Ceremony’s Spring 2010 short film. Directed by Gia Coppola and Tracy Antonopoulos, the film stars fashion and film darlings Kristen Dunst and Jason Schwartzman (You may remember both for previously appearing in label, Band of Outsiders’ past lookbooks and collections.) The film borrows a lot from the styles evident in French Cinema. There’s a good level of playfulness to the short, but it also shows a few other emotionally stirring incidents involving both characters. The short will screen at the Opening Ceremony’s party for its new Ace Hotel shop Saturday. And if you’re wondering about the music in the film, it’s from Jason Schwartzman’s band, Coconut Records.
Kenzo – Fall 2010 Menswear Show (With Video)
Kenzo creative director Antonio Maras was inspired by French filmmaker Jacques Tati for his retro-1950’s collection. The Autumn/Winter 2010 range consisted of rainwear, accompanied by hats and umbrellas, which was evident in a lot of Tati’s films. To reflect the Fall weather, colors that Maras used were made up of reds, browns, oranges, and greens – similar to that of foliage during the season. These tones were used on items such as overcoats, double breasted suits, cardigans, trousers, and more. Accessories were also a highlight in the collection, with various playful hues, patterns, and materials evident in the shoes, umbrellas, and hats.
Apart from the collection itself, it was also fun to see the show from beginning to end, where the runway extends to the sidewalk and inside the bus. A nice homage to Tati by Maras.
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Yohan Serfaty – Autumn/Winter 2010 Collection
This Heart’s on Fire points us to the Autumn/Winter 2010 Collection of Yohan Serfaty. The Casablanca native feels he can bridge the gap between womenswear and menswear through his seemingly androgynous designs. According to Yohan, “I do not make a difference between men and women. I believe that in our current era women are affirming their masculinity, men, on the other hand, are very much in touch with their feminine side. In some kind of way they’re joining each other in the middle. Nevertheless they still keep their personal mystery.”
For Yohan’s Men Autumn/Winter 2010 Collection, we get a good glimpse of his knack for constructing leather outerwear. Included are long coats and jackets that are pieced with both extreme detailing and minimalism. Some of the outerwear are smooth and streamlined, bearing almost no stitches or pockets. Other coats however, have dramatic details such as high collars, sherpa flaps, and other obvious trimmings, pockets, and stitchings. There’s something both abstract and simple to the way the collection is presented, and it could go back to Yohan’s thoughts on the male and female form, where rigidity and subtlety can exist in both sexes.
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Billy Reid Wins 2010 GQ/CFDA Best New Menswear Designer in America Award
GQ kicked off New York Fashion Week last night by celebrating the six finalists in their 2010 search for the Best New Designer in America Award. At the end, it was designer Billy Reid who nabbed the award along with a $50,000 cash prize and the opportunity to create a limited edition Levi’s collection for Bloomingdale’s. As part of their continued celebration for each of the nominees, GQ will be release behind-the-scenes videos of each of the designers. The first video, of course is winner Billy Reid. Congratulations to Billy for this outstanding achievement!
Full list of nominees include:
- Billy Reid (Winner)
- Richard Chai
- Unis (by Eunice Lee)
- J. Crew by Frank Muytjens
- Caulfield Preparatory by Vincent Flumiani
- Burkman Brothers by Doug and Ben Burkman
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Maison Martin Margiela – Fall/Winter 2010 Collection
According Maison Martin Margiela, the Fall/Winter 2010 collection is, “an abstraction of black and white photography.” There was deep research in the realm of the monochrome and being able to transfer it to unique textures and fabrics that aren’t often used. Checks and flannels are evident in suits, and even tee-shirts got the soft nappa leather treatment. There are also various degrees of slim cuts in
pants, as well as the use of leather. Outerwear such as the macintosh coat had sheepskin accents, and other fanciful details and trimmings.
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Lanvin – Spring/Summer 2010 Footwear Releases
Here are a few releases from Lavnin’s Spring/Summer 2010 footwear collection at Aloha Rag. Available in their online shop right now are the low and high trainer shoes, and a very appealing multi-toned deck shoe. Visit Aloha Rag now for purchase.
