Patrik Ervell – Fall 2010 Show
I always look forward to this collection, especially the Fall/Winter ones. There may not be drastic changes or trend-chasing from season to season, but there is something distinctive about the Patrik Ervell collection that I have an affinity for. For this season, Ervell maintains his minimal aesthetic amidst a very subdued (with the exception of the red suit and yellow raincoat) range of colors. And as evidenced in last year’s show, he continually explores the use of alternate synthetic materials for his construction. One would comment that this year’s showing did embrace some workwear trends in the styling. There were chunky shoes and trim canvas panting that suggested this, but it never strays from the Patrik Ervell motif. I must quote GQ’s take on the collection from their website. “A parallel universe for moody art-school kids with a thing for Joy Division.” Too funny.
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Loden Dager – Fall 2010 Show
From what’s going around the internet, many have used words such as hip, urban, and even safe for the Loden Dager Fall/Winter 2010 collection. Amidst the gamut of shows featured during NYC’s Men’s Fashion Week, there are plenty of designers that are tamer and more encompassing of that “safe” moniker that I’ve seen.
The design pair of Oliver Helden and Paul Marlow, both formerly of Marc Jacobs, have crafted an indeed hip and urban collection that highlights minimalism and architectural lines in their silhouettes. There was a pleasant mix of trim cuts and wider fits (especially in the interesting sweatpants with pleating), and also, a dominantly neutral color family featuring blues and grays was broken up by a few looks that had bold shocks of color. There was cohesiveness to the show by including variations of particular items such as belted overcoats, the sweat pants (with the unbuttoned fly), shorts with leggings (extremely popular look this coming Fall) and their beautiful shawl-jacket. Beautiful cohesiveness is a more fitting description.
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Band of Outsiders – Fall 2010 Show
Scott Sternberg remains at the forefront of a style which has soared to another stratosphere in men’s fashion. It’s defined a set of “cool,” for lack of a better word. You may recognize many of the items from his Band of Outsiders Fall/Winter 2010 collection. Not just from his works in seasons past, but a similar anorak at L.L. Bean, a corduroy suit at J. Crew, or a navy blue blazer anywhere. Look closer though. There is something apparent that identifies the BoO looks. There are the ultra-trim silhouettes and shrunken jacket proportions, contrast collars on the trench and bomber, and the construction of the pockets on the anoraks and blazers are different then what you’ve seen at retail stores. It’s just better. A major discussion point on the blogs and Twitter were the unveiling of the Band of Outsiders’ assortment of footwear – got the internet going crazy!
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Kenzo – Fall 2010 Menswear Show (With Video)
Kenzo creative director Antonio Maras was inspired by French filmmaker Jacques Tati for his retro-1950’s collection. The Autumn/Winter 2010 range consisted of rainwear, accompanied by hats and umbrellas, which was evident in a lot of Tati’s films. To reflect the Fall weather, colors that Maras used were made up of reds, browns, oranges, and greens – similar to that of foliage during the season. These tones were used on items such as overcoats, double breasted suits, cardigans, trousers, and more. Accessories were also a highlight in the collection, with various playful hues, patterns, and materials evident in the shoes, umbrellas, and hats.
Apart from the collection itself, it was also fun to see the show from beginning to end, where the runway extends to the sidewalk and inside the bus. A nice homage to Tati by Maras.
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Yohan Serfaty – Autumn/Winter 2010 Collection
This Heart’s on Fire points us to the Autumn/Winter 2010 Collection of Yohan Serfaty. The Casablanca native feels he can bridge the gap between womenswear and menswear through his seemingly androgynous designs. According to Yohan, “I do not make a difference between men and women. I believe that in our current era women are affirming their masculinity, men, on the other hand, are very much in touch with their feminine side. In some kind of way they’re joining each other in the middle. Nevertheless they still keep their personal mystery.”
For Yohan’s Men Autumn/Winter 2010 Collection, we get a good glimpse of his knack for constructing leather outerwear. Included are long coats and jackets that are pieced with both extreme detailing and minimalism. Some of the outerwear are smooth and streamlined, bearing almost no stitches or pockets. Other coats however, have dramatic details such as high collars, sherpa flaps, and other obvious trimmings, pockets, and stitchings. There’s something both abstract and simple to the way the collection is presented, and it could go back to Yohan’s thoughts on the male and female form, where rigidity and subtlety can exist in both sexes.
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Maison Martin Margiela – Fall/Winter 2010 Collection
According Maison Martin Margiela, the Fall/Winter 2010 collection is, “an abstraction of black and white photography.” There was deep research in the realm of the monochrome and being able to transfer it to unique textures and fabrics that aren’t often used. Checks and flannels are evident in suits, and even tee-shirts got the soft nappa leather treatment. There are also various degrees of slim cuts in
pants, as well as the use of leather. Outerwear such as the macintosh coat had sheepskin accents, and other fanciful details and trimmings.
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Nau – Spring 2010 Preview
Our favorite eco-friendly label, Nau has just stocked a few preview items for their Spring 2010 collection. As always, Nau looks to give their fashion and earth conscious customers finely crafted styles that reflect the brand’s business practices. For Spring, items such as their vice blazer, light beam jacket, and dual citizen hoodie are ideal for the Spring weather containing a perfect balance for layering. To see more items from Nau’s preview releases make sure to visit their website.
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The Row – Spring/Summer 2010 Lookbook
What’s intriguing about this collection is that The Row uses actor James Ransone as their Spring/Summer 2010 model. Ransone is one of the most underrated actors in Hollywood, appearing in films such as the Inside Man and television shows such as The Wire and Generation Kill. The luxury label, keeps it extremely simple for the season with pieces that include blazers, button ups, light leather jackets, shorts, and shirts. There’s nothing seemingly luxurious about the collection, which could be the ironic twist the brand is going for.
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Roberto Collina – Spring/Summer 2010
Italian designer Roberto Collina is praised for his amazing work with knitwear. For Spring/Summer 2010, the Bologna designer works out a collection complementing a few pieces of his knits. Jackets are constructed with the same easiness and effortless looks Collina churns out every season. The range is simple with pieces that will be perfect for those who have a an eye and style for minimalism.
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Marc Jacobs – Fall/Winter 2010 Show
The simplicity and elegance Marc Jacobs brings to his Men’s Fall/Winter collection is near perfection. The look is very mature, yet it brings a subtle youthful touch with a range that consists of suits, leather jackets, large knits, and baggy trousers. The color palette is also on the quiet side with various degrees of blacks and greys mixed in with camel and burgundy. We exceptionally like the fit on the one button blazers and the detailing on the leather jackets.
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