Bespoken – Fall 2010 Show
Bespoken could possibly give the other Fall 2010 labels a run for its money in the “coolest” collection category. From first glance, thoughts of French New Wave cinema comes to mind with its grey color tones, short suits, fedoras, and bow ties. It’s eerily similar to the likes of Band of Outsiders, but the style is definitely easily discernible. There’s a boyish quality to the collection, poetically channeling the looks of Jean-Paul Belmondo, Gérard Blain, Jean-Pierre Léaud, and Maurice Ronet. As for the collection itself, we find ourselves gravitating to the buffalo plaid blazer, the hats, the short blazers, and a few of the round collar tops.
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Buckler – Fall 2010 Show
Buckler goes nomad for his 2010 Fall collection. Ideal for the would be traveler/wanderer in mind, Buckler puts together a range consisting of double breasted blazers, three piece suits, wool jackets, thick knit sweaters, slim trousers, and asymmetrical tops. The color palette is heavy on blacks and greys, but there’s the addition of multicolored flannels, browns, tans, and olives. The collection is subtle with a rugged approach, and as for the traveler/wanderer style – think Arthur Miller’s Death of a Salesman meets Jack Kerouac’s poetry.
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Rag & Bone – Fall 2010 Show
Military inspired garb is great, and it’s even better when its done right. Rag & Bone prepares a collection appropriately tailored for the war trenches. There’s a rugged and apocalyptic feel to the range with black boots, down wool jackets, oversized scarves, militaristic blazers, super chunky knits, leather patched jackets, and more. The feel of the collection provides an always-prepared-for-anything look, whether it be extreme conditions as a foot soldier, or a strategical masterminding command officer. The color palettes that go from black, grey, olive, and burgundy also signals a very impressive color story line reflecting the World War theme of the range.
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Oris – Darryl O’Young Limited Editions
The Oris TT3 gets the limited edition treatment with a release as a Darryl O’Young model. For those unfamiliar, Darryl O’Young is a world class Porsche Type 997 race car driver who is also a PCCA Double Class A Champion. And there’s no better watch collaboration involving a championship driver. With its technical and sporty looks, the watch borrows features from Porsche cars – specifically the 911 GT3 RSR and 911 GT3 Cup models. Some features include curved glass cases, rubber straps, wheel prim patterns, calendar date wheel, and Superluminova numerals with the same Microgramma typeface like the ones found on the Porsche.
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GANT by Michael Bastian – Fall 2010 Show
Michael Bastian connects well with GANT because it’s one of those classic labels his father wore. To give GANT the reinvention he envisions, Bastian exclaims that, “I see my version of the GANT guy as the younger brother to the Michael Bastian guy. He’s more casual, and a little more athletic, but with a modern edge that feels both approachable and sophisticated.” This is Bastian’s nod to American sportswear, the theme of lacrosse, and the youthfulness of items such as rugbies and shorts, mixed in with the casual styles of blazers, cords, and plaids is just the right formula to introduce the brand to its younger/future clientele.
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Sewn From the Soul
Our good friends and colleagues Josh and Trav just gave us the heads up on a project they’ve been working on for Black History Month. The Street Etiquette duo has been hard at work with multiple projects, and this latest one they’re pulling off from their sleeve is nothing short of amazing. Enlisting the help of friends, SE has beautifully executed an editorial honoring some of the most influential and most stylist icons from Black History’s pasts. The group channels the styles of Miles Davis, Sammy Davis Jr., Cornell West, Nat “King” Cole, Gordon Parks, and more for their “Sewn From the Soul” editorial project.
Visit: SEWN FROM THE SOUL (for full editorial)
Continue reading to view some images of the editorial and a behind the scenes look of the making of “Sewn from the Soul.”
Robert Geller – Fall 2010 Show
The Robert Geller brand always evokes a broody/gothic and romantic feel with each show. If you have the privilege to attend a show of this prestige, one could feel transported to an era that epitomized this style. That’s where Geller’s amazing talent lies. He’s able to communicate that story to an audience with poignant visuals. The lighting and music heightened the effect of this show. Models paced the runway donning bowler hats, fur shawls, strikingly bold stripe patterns, the color purple, and cloaks and capes to finish the looks off. Geller’s portrayal of such a man was executed perfectly.
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Patrik Ervell – Fall 2010 Show
I always look forward to this collection, especially the Fall/Winter ones. There may not be drastic changes or trend-chasing from season to season, but there is something distinctive about the Patrik Ervell collection that I have an affinity for. For this season, Ervell maintains his minimal aesthetic amidst a very subdued (with the exception of the red suit and yellow raincoat) range of colors. And as evidenced in last year’s show, he continually explores the use of alternate synthetic materials for his construction. One would comment that this year’s showing did embrace some workwear trends in the styling. There were chunky shoes and trim canvas panting that suggested this, but it never strays from the Patrik Ervell motif. I must quote GQ’s take on the collection from their website. “A parallel universe for moody art-school kids with a thing for Joy Division.” Too funny.
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Loden Dager – Fall 2010 Show
From what’s going around the internet, many have used words such as hip, urban, and even safe for the Loden Dager Fall/Winter 2010 collection. Amidst the gamut of shows featured during NYC’s Men’s Fashion Week, there are plenty of designers that are tamer and more encompassing of that “safe” moniker that I’ve seen.
The design pair of Oliver Helden and Paul Marlow, both formerly of Marc Jacobs, have crafted an indeed hip and urban collection that highlights minimalism and architectural lines in their silhouettes. There was a pleasant mix of trim cuts and wider fits (especially in the interesting sweatpants with pleating), and also, a dominantly neutral color family featuring blues and grays was broken up by a few looks that had bold shocks of color. There was cohesiveness to the show by including variations of particular items such as belted overcoats, the sweat pants (with the unbuttoned fly), shorts with leggings (extremely popular look this coming Fall) and their beautiful shawl-jacket. Beautiful cohesiveness is a more fitting description.
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Band of Outsiders – Fall 2010 Show
Scott Sternberg remains at the forefront of a style which has soared to another stratosphere in men’s fashion. It’s defined a set of “cool,” for lack of a better word. You may recognize many of the items from his Band of Outsiders Fall/Winter 2010 collection. Not just from his works in seasons past, but a similar anorak at L.L. Bean, a corduroy suit at J. Crew, or a navy blue blazer anywhere. Look closer though. There is something apparent that identifies the BoO looks. There are the ultra-trim silhouettes and shrunken jacket proportions, contrast collars on the trench and bomber, and the construction of the pockets on the anoraks and blazers are different then what you’ve seen at retail stores. It’s just better. A major discussion point on the blogs and Twitter were the unveiling of the Band of Outsiders’ assortment of footwear – got the internet going crazy!
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