Gant Rugger – Spring/Summer 2010 Looks
At its pinnacle, Gant was revered as the go-to shirtmaker for the leagues of college students in the US. Designer, Christopher Bastian has revived that essence that was so commonly associated with the label back then. The new interpretations featured in Gant’s Spring and Summer collection are all the recognized staples from American-prep heritage. These include knitwear with cable stitching and nautical stripes and shirting from classically tailored oxfords to fine Indian madras. All of the outerwear featured on the Gant Rugger site also captures this spirit with a great collection of waxed cotton jackets and parkas, varsity jackets and Barracuda-style offerings. Bastin has managed to revitalize these classic looks and usher them into the new decade with great construction and style.
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Denim Debate
The new Denim Debate site hopes to unveil some truths about high-end denim quality. A collective of bloggers, store owners and stylish associates have come together in a challenge of sorts to compare their respective brand of jeans by chronicling its life from purchase to alteration to first wash and to that “perfectly worn-in” look.
A long and diverse list of denim lines are represented on the site including The Flat Head, Studio D’Artisan, Kicking Mule Workshop, Levi’s Vintage, Rising Sun, 3Sixteen, APC, Nom de Guerre, Self Edge and much much more.
Each contributor documents the progress of their denim with regularly updated posts that will uncover methods of the wear process, the various fits for body types, color fade and several other elements that attribute to denim’s character.
This project is encouraged to be interactive with the readers which will enable them to comment on preferences and share their own denim experiences. All parties gain to learn something through this effort.
So bookmark the Denim Debate, and check out this impressive roster of enthusiasts, converts and overall passionate students of denim. I’m a proud participant of this project, and I’m sure you’ll recognize some other faces as well.
Note: my prized Self Edge x Real Japan Blues will prove to be a standout.
You can also follow Denim Debate on their Twitter page: twitter.com/denimdebate
General Idea – Fall/Winter 2010 Show
Korean designer, Bumsuk Choi, presented the latest menswear collection of his General Idea line during NY Fashion Week this past Monday. Rarely does Choi veer way off of the dark neutral color palette, and the featured items of his show remained consistent to this color story. The layering in the looks was comprised of simple, solid colored knits (especially turtlenecks) and a variety of outerwear including toggled overcoats, leather jackets, and blazers. Some particular looks reoccurred on the runway at times. There were the wool trouser shorts over what appeared to be leggings. There was the use of metallic colors in the outerwear which really popped on the catwalk. There was also a “bandana” print on some of the overcoats that added interest to the often solid-colored pieces layered underneath them.
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Yuketen – Spring/Summer 2010 Preview
Online store, Oi Polloi, will be looking to stock up on some new models from Yuketen. These images featured on SwipeLife show the different style of boat shoes and moc-toe footwear in leather and/or suede. The Yuketen label is renowned for its expert craftsmanship in footwear, and their foray into luggage should prove to uphold this reputation. Follow the jump to view more footwear and handbags and backpacks.
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Michael Bastian – Fall/Winter 2010 Show
The Bastian Fall/Winter collection combines one part classic American heritage and one part punk-rock to quench the fashion palette of the modern urbanite. All of the “Americana” style trappings that many of you have become accustomed to in recent years such as quilted jackets, plaid, corduroy suits, tweed jackets, etcetera are all jazzed up with distressed denim and Doc Marten boots in Bastian’s latest show. The styling presented in this show really captured the attention of the audience for the line’s versatility and accessibility to one’s current wardrobe. I wasn’t drawn heavily to a theme or story of the runway show, but just the clothes. The show was entertaining, nonetheless.
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Billy Reid – Fall/Winter 2010 Show
I’ve read countless times how Billy Reid attributes much of his design aesthetic to his upbringing in Alabama. Though I don’t doubt this plays an integral part in his design process, I don’t particularly grasp that southern sensibility when I see the clothes for his Fall/Winter collection. I see beautiful gentleman classics that I associate with all corners of the US. Reid seemed to touch base on a majority of the classics and didn’t embellish too much on them. The colors predominantly stayed in the grays and browns. There’s always some rugged sophistication about the looks on his runway, and this establishes a strong sense of timelessness. Layering was executed excellently, and my favorite looks paired the short jackets with suiting or knitwear.
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Robert Geller – Fall 2010 Show
The Robert Geller brand always evokes a broody/gothic and romantic feel with each show. If you have the privilege to attend a show of this prestige, one could feel transported to an era that epitomized this style. That’s where Geller’s amazing talent lies. He’s able to communicate that story to an audience with poignant visuals. The lighting and music heightened the effect of this show. Models paced the runway donning bowler hats, fur shawls, strikingly bold stripe patterns, the color purple, and cloaks and capes to finish the looks off. Geller’s portrayal of such a man was executed perfectly.
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Patrik Ervell – Fall 2010 Show
I always look forward to this collection, especially the Fall/Winter ones. There may not be drastic changes or trend-chasing from season to season, but there is something distinctive about the Patrik Ervell collection that I have an affinity for. For this season, Ervell maintains his minimal aesthetic amidst a very subdued (with the exception of the red suit and yellow raincoat) range of colors. And as evidenced in last year’s show, he continually explores the use of alternate synthetic materials for his construction. One would comment that this year’s showing did embrace some workwear trends in the styling. There were chunky shoes and trim canvas panting that suggested this, but it never strays from the Patrik Ervell motif. I must quote GQ’s take on the collection from their website. “A parallel universe for moody art-school kids with a thing for Joy Division.” Too funny.
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Loden Dager – Fall 2010 Show
From what’s going around the internet, many have used words such as hip, urban, and even safe for the Loden Dager Fall/Winter 2010 collection. Amidst the gamut of shows featured during NYC’s Men’s Fashion Week, there are plenty of designers that are tamer and more encompassing of that “safe” moniker that I’ve seen.
The design pair of Oliver Helden and Paul Marlow, both formerly of Marc Jacobs, have crafted an indeed hip and urban collection that highlights minimalism and architectural lines in their silhouettes. There was a pleasant mix of trim cuts and wider fits (especially in the interesting sweatpants with pleating), and also, a dominantly neutral color family featuring blues and grays was broken up by a few looks that had bold shocks of color. There was cohesiveness to the show by including variations of particular items such as belted overcoats, the sweat pants (with the unbuttoned fly), shorts with leggings (extremely popular look this coming Fall) and their beautiful shawl-jacket. Beautiful cohesiveness is a more fitting description.
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Band of Outsiders – Fall 2010 Show
Scott Sternberg remains at the forefront of a style which has soared to another stratosphere in men’s fashion. It’s defined a set of “cool,” for lack of a better word. You may recognize many of the items from his Band of Outsiders Fall/Winter 2010 collection. Not just from his works in seasons past, but a similar anorak at L.L. Bean, a corduroy suit at J. Crew, or a navy blue blazer anywhere. Look closer though. There is something apparent that identifies the BoO looks. There are the ultra-trim silhouettes and shrunken jacket proportions, contrast collars on the trench and bomber, and the construction of the pockets on the anoraks and blazers are different then what you’ve seen at retail stores. It’s just better. A major discussion point on the blogs and Twitter were the unveiling of the Band of Outsiders’ assortment of footwear – got the internet going crazy!
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